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Katana simulator1/20/2024 ![]() ![]() ![]() Ultimately, you will want to avoid power amp settings and a cabinet/IR if you are going into the power amp input on a Katana MK II. The power amp modelling has settings like "sag, bias, x-bias, etc. My hunch tells me that "full amp model" includes the preamp, power amp and cab, while "pre amp model plus cab" is likely just the preamp and cab, no power amp modeling. I'm looking through manuals but don't see anything written out clearly. So using the modeler's cabinet models through a traditional guitar speaker is kind of double dipping on the coloration as well, again could be unpleasant.īut all this is generally easy to check with some experimenting with the modeler and A-B tests with the amp and headphones. It looks like the Katana is using a somewhat traditional guitar-type speaker and maybe not full range (not sure though), which can color a sound as well. Helix also has cab model blocks (and can use impulse responses / cab models). Personal preference and experience though. I found it best to neutralize the amp as much as possible and let Helix or other modeler do all the work. ![]() If you can't disable it on the amp or software, you may be double-dipping on the tube-ness if using a full amp model (not just preamp model) which can be unpleasant.like too much icing on a cake. Reading about the Katana and the Tube Logic power section, I'm guessing that the "Tube Logic" tech may be able provide some of that tube power amp feel and coloration if desired. If you are plugging into a guitar amp that is neutral and intended for use with modelers (Line 6 Spider Valve, PG Bias Head, Fryette Power Station, Duncan Power Stage, Katana maybe, others), then you would use the full amp model blocks generally. You would generally use a preamp-only block if you have a tube amp you are plugging into that is going to provide the power section "color", like the Line 6 DT25/50 or really any Mesa, Marshall, etc. In Helix, you have a choice of a full amp model block, meaning both the preamp and power amp sections are modeled, or just the preamp. Sorry, I know nothing about Pod Go yet, other than the great videos Paul Hindmarsh has posted. Oh, maybe preamp and full amp model blocks are only an option in Helix. what is the difference between "full amp model" and "pre amp model plus cab"? That sounds like the same thing to me. I haven't tried using Tone Studio to tweak the pre amp in but that sounds promising.ĭumb question, but what is the difference between "full amp model" and "pre amp model plus cab"? That sounds like the same thing to me. I'm getting better tone out of that than the GO but that's probably/hopefully because I'm still such a noob to the device. I prefer it over the Headrush frfr so far, but that is probably due to my room acoustics and the extreme booming base from the HR. Thank you for your reply! The method you describe (1/4 cable from mono to Katana preamp in) is what I have been using and the results are pretty good. Maybe someone with a Katana will chime in. But generally, the less coloring by the amp, the better/controllable/predictable the results with a modeler. I don't know anything about the Katana's Tube Logic Power section tech and the coloring/effect that may have. So with other modeling amplifiers I have with similar logic of plugging into power amp in or effects return to bypass the internal modeling (Line 6 Spider Valve MKii and Positive Grid Bias Head), I just use Helix full amp models (not just preamps), turn the cabs off on the Helix presets, take a 1/4" cable from Helix left/mono out to the amp's power amp in/effects return and done. And with BOSS Tone Studio, the input can be easily optimized for your particular gear with a high-pass filter and adjustable gain. Connecting to the rear-panel Power Amp In jack bypasses Katana MkII's preamp and effects, letting you tap straight into the Tube Logic power section, complete with grab-and-go Power Control. ![]() The Katana-50 MkII rocks as a standalone amp, but it also excels as a powered cabinet for a favorite preamp, modeler, or multi-effects unit. I wouldn't personally try to mess with 4CM, probably not worth the effort and cables. It looks like it is engineered for other external modelers (such as Helix) and should be plug and play just using the Power Amp in. I don't have a Katana, but just read about it a bit and checked out some images. Not sure how much help I'll be, but I'll give it a go. ![]()
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